Trip Tips: Things to do in the Driftless Region

Things to do: Canoe the Kickapoo. Ontario is home to a handful of outfitters, including Titanic Canoe Rental, 300 State Highway 131, which I used on my first visit. Canoes are $35, kayaks are $25 and tubes are $15, which includes shuttle service. Summer and fall weekends are busy on the narrow river, so aim for a weekday paddle. (877) 438-7865, titaniccanoerental.com.

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The Kickapoo Valley Reserve Visitor Center, S3661 State Highway 131, La Farge, has information on the more than 50 miles of trails through the reserve, plus trail use fees ($4/person, $15/family), primitive campsites ($10 and $15) and river conditions. It's open 8 a.m.-4:30 pm Monday through Saturday and 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday, Memorial Day weekend through Oct. 31, with limited hours in the winter. (608) 625-2960, kvr.state.wi.us.

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Wildcat Mountain State Park stretches up from the reserve's northern side near Ontario. Take in a view of the river valley from an observation point at the upper picnic area before hiking the 2.5-mile Old Settler's Trail. Then make your way to the canoe landing to hike the challenging 1.3-mile Hemlock Nature Trail up Mount Pisgah for more views from 1,220 feet. (608) 337-4775, wiparks.net.

Sidie Hollow County Park near Viroqua has 10 miles of multi-use trails around the 40-acre Sidie Hollow Lake, plus a campground.

Shop for Amish-crafted goods at Down A Country Road, 12651 Highway 33, Cashton, a collection of shops selling everything from furniture to maple syrup. Owners Chuck and Kathy Kuderer also offer tours of the surrounding Amish community. (608) 654-5318, downacountryroad.com.

Bike the Elroy-Sparta State Trail, the country's first rail-to-trail conversion, 32 miles from Elroy to Sparta to travel through three old railroad tunnels. Cyclists age 16 and older need a state trail pass ($5/day, $25/year). Speed's Bike Shop in Sparta offers rentals and a shuttle service: (608) 269-2315, speedsbike.com.

Where to eat: The Driftless Cafe, 118 W. Court St., is co-owned by James Beard semifinalist Luke Zahm, who uses local and organic ingredients to craft an ever-changing lunch and dinner menu. Reservations are accepted. (608) 637-7778, driftlesscafe.com.

RELATED:James Beard nominee returned to his roots with Driftless Cafe

Sample wines at Branches Winery, E6796 Old Line Road, Westby, then enjoy a glass on the covered patio overlooking the vineyard. Wood-fired pizzas are served up Friday through Sunday in the summer. (608) 634-9463, brancheswinery.com.

In tiny Rockton, the Rockton Bar serves up a good, inexpensive bar menu with specials including BBQ chicken on Sunday that is so popular the bar recommends people reserve their birds. (608) 625-4325.

Where to stay: The Kickapoo Valley Ranch, E11761 County Road P, La Farge, has eight individual guest cabins that feature large porches with rocking chairs and kitchens or kitchenettes. Rates start at $169. (608) 625-6222, kvranch.com.

Justin Trails Resort, 7452 Kathryn Ave., Sparta, offers lodging in farmhouse suites, a garden cottage, log cabins and a campground. The bed and breakfast also has trails for hiking and disc golf courses. Rates start at $125. (608) 269-4522, justintrails.com.

For camping, Wildcat Mountain State Park has 25 family campsites, 20 cart-in sites, 1 canoe campsite and 24 sites for equestrians. The Kickapoo Valley Reserve has 25 primitive campsites — about half are vehicle-accessible, and the rest are accessed via canoeing, hiking, biking or horseback. All are first-come, first-serve; permits are available at the visitor center and self-registration stations throughout the reserve.